Wood Buffalo National Park: The Ultimate Outdoor Destination

When visitors travel to the Northwest Territories, the majority of them head for Yellowknife. It’s understandable as it’s the capital of the NWT and all major airlines fly there. However, it means that many miss out on some incredible destinations across the territory – one specifically close to the Alberta border. The Northwest Territories is home to the third-largest national park in the world and it’s not to be missed! See why visiting Wood Buffalo National Park should be on every Canada bucket list and all of the incredible things to do in this park.

Where is Wood Buffalo National Park?

At 44,807 km², Wood Buffalo National Park is Canada’s largest national park. It straddles the border between the southern Northwest Territories and northern Alberta. As you can see from the map below, the majority of the park is in the latter. Established in 1922, WBNP park is larger than the entire country of Switzerland!

When driving east from Hay River, you’ll be passing through the park along Highway 5 as you head to Fort Smith. This is where you’ll find the visitors centre. I’d make stopping here your first order of business before venturing into the park. Open year-round, you can get expert advice from all of the incredible staff who work there. They can also help arrange guided tours and answer any and all questions you may have about WBNP. There is also a store within where you can purchase any Parks Canada souvenirs you may want as a memento of your trip!

Things to Do in Wood Buffalo National Park

With a park so large, there’s naturally a number of incredible things to do within it. It’s seriously an outdoor lover’s playground. Don’t miss these fantastic activities during your visit to Wood Buffalo National Park!

Visit the Only Salt Plains in Canada

Probably the most popular destination for visitors to Wood Buffalo National Park is the Salt Plains Lookout. Just off of Highway 5, take the 11km side road and you’ll come upon an incredible viewpoint overlooking 370km² of breathtaking landscapes. Follow the serpentine Switchback Trail down to the base of the hill where you’re free to explore. Or if you’re adventurous, you can follow in the bison’s footsteps and take the direct route along the aptly named Bison Trail.

Take a moment to enjoy the vegetation along the trails. Whether you take the Switchback or Bison Trail, you’ll find plenty of unique plants. From brightly coloured fungi to juniper berry bushes, it’s amazing to see the variety of flora and fauna in Canada’s boreal forest.

Upon reaching the base, head to the right across the salt plains. You’ll come upon a large cluster of what looks like snow. This is where you’ll find a natural saline spring! I dare you to stick your finger in the water and give it a taste. Make sure you have water hand though as you’ll need to wash away the salty taste! Along the way, you’ll see plenty of red samphire – the only plant that can withstand the vast quantities of salt in this area.

When the weather has been dry and sunny, you’ll find a layer of salt across the entire area. If this is the case, take off your shoes when you’re at the bottom of the trail. Enjoy one of the most natural exfoliations you’ll ever have!

Wander Across a Mars-Like Landscape

Start your journey at the head of the Benchmark Creek Trail. Wander through the trees across meadows and even some small prairies that are normally found much further south! Keep an eye out for the variety of mushrooms you’ll spot along the way. Walk for about 2km and you’ll see a signpost for Grosbeak Lake though the rusty looking clay just past it might catch your eye first!

Another part of the vast salt plains, this looks entirely different than what you see at the lookout. Glacial erratics are scattered as far as your eye can see atop the rust-coloured clay. Wander from rock to rock across the salt pan lake as you see variations in mineral patterns. It’s a breathtaking scene that you wouldn’t expect to see close to the Northwest Territories border!

At this point, you have two options. You can head back to the trail and continue forward or you can wander through the glacial erratics to the other side of the area. If you choose to stay along the lake bed, be careful of where you step. If the conditions are wet, you can run into soft clay that you can sink into unexpectedly. Whatever route you take, don’t miss grabbing a photo op with the iconic Parks Canada red chairs!

I recommend allowing at least 2-2.5 hours so you can fully take your time to enjoy the sights! It truly is a magnificent landscape that will have you absolutely mesmerized.

Go For a Paddle on Pine Lake

If I told you aquamarine waters comparable to the Caribbean could be found in Wood Buffalo National Park, would you believe me? Well, it’s true!

Three sinkholes eroded to form Pine Lake, a fantastic summer getaway within Wood Buffalo National Park. With warm waters, sandy beaches and more, this day-use area is the perfect spot for some fun in the sun. Grab a paddle and glide through these beautiful waters. You’ll hear loons in the distance as they call to one another. If you’re lucky, you might even see them magically ‘teleport’ as they dip beneath the surface to pop up hundreds of metres away!

NOTE: If you don’t have a canoe, that’s okay! You can rent one from Parks Canada. Inquire at the Visitors Centre in Fort Smith.

As you paddle across the lake, you’ll see a beach on the eastern side across from cabins (many of which are owned by Fort Smith locals). You’re welcome to take a moment to relax and relish in the beautiful surroundings, but it’s important to stay on the beach itself. You may notice an orange post sticking out of the land a few metres up. This signifies the start of Ts’u Nedhé Tué Smith’s Landing First Nation and Dehneeah Túe Salt River First Nation territory. While it makes for a fun photo opportunity to be standing on the border of three nations, be respectful and ask permission before entering their territories.

Admire Active Karst Topography

Shortly after you enter Wood Buffalo National park on Pine Lake Road you’ll see a turn-off and parking area. Here you’ll find the start of the Karstland Trail, a short 750m loop that’s not to be overlooked. The trail showcases some incredible topography comparable to what you’d see along the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario.

Wander across the boardwalks as you peek over into the karsts below. Karsts are formed when soluble rocks like dolomite, gypsum and limestone erode. Sinkholes are a perfect example of karst topography. You’ll see a number of karst formations along this short stretch of trail and some of them run deep – REALLY deep!

As you round out the trail, towards the end you’ll see some white aspen trees that look a little… different. They look as if you tried to draw a straight line with your non-dominant hand. Since the ground is often shifting and these trees grow towards the sun, they change direction creating what is lovingly referred to as the ‘drunken forest’.

Explore the Salt River

The Salt River starts from McNeil Lake in the park and snakes its way across the Northwest Territories and Alberta until it connects to the Slave River northwest of Fort Smith. While it’s only navigatable by canoe or kayak for two weeks of the year with spring runoff, luckily there’s a trail so you can enjoy a taste of its natural beauty!

Head across the road (look both ways!) from the Salt River Day Use Area parking lot and you’ll find the Salt River Meadows Trail. This 2.2km long trail is a fairly flat, easy trail that’s perfect for all ages. Meander through beautiful meadows and admire the views as you wander through to a typical bison habitat. It’s here where you won’t want to miss another photo opportunity with the red Parks Canada chairs!

If you’re looking to continue your hike, you can follow the Benchmark Creek Trail which will connect you to Grosbeak Lake as I mentioned above. Since this is a linear trail, you’ll end up further south and need to trek back to your car either along the road or by retracing your steps!

Watch for Wildlife

One of the most iconic experiences you can have in Wood Buffalo National Park is spotting the bison the park protects. There’s no guarantee you’ll see them, so don’t go to the visitors centre asking where they’ll be. (Yes, this actually happens). If you’re lucky, you’ll spot one or even a whole herd as you explore the park! No matter how many times I see them, I’m still mesmerized by their majestic beauty.

When you do see them, respect them as all wildlife deserves to be respected. Stay in your car and admire from afar. This serves especially true from mid-July to September as this is rutting season – aka bison mating season. If you see a bison with its tail arched upward, this means he or she is agitated. Keep a safe distance away and relish in the fact that you’re lucky enough to see one!

Stargazing and Aurora Hunting

Besides being Canada’s largest national park, Wood Buffalo National Park is also the world’s largest dark sky preserve. If you’re unaware, a dark sky preserve is an area that restricts artificial light pollution made by man-made illumination. These places are often parks or include an observatory which allows for some of the best stargazing conditions!

Anywhere within the park makes a great spot for admiring our night sky. Personally, I think shots where you’re able to reflect the aurora in the water are absolutely incredible. I’d suggest heading to Pine Lake where you’ll find this and much more! This is where the Sky Circle is located, a circle of benches constructed to allow you to lean back and gaze at the endless field of stars overhead… unless your party is crashed by the aurora! In the middle of it, there’s a concrete foundation where you can set up a telescope to get a closer look. You also have the option to set up by the dock and beach, perfect for snagging those epic shots across the water.

The Thebacha & Wood Buffalo Dark Sky Festival

If you’re looking to plan your trip to Fort Smith and Wood Buffalo National Park, I highly recommend doing so during the Thebacha & Wood Buffalo Dark Sky Festival. For almost 10 years now, astronomy enthusiasts come from all over for this all-inclusive event to celebrate our night sky.

This multi-day festival is held at the end of August and perfect for stargazers young and old. You’ll start in the town of Fort Smith, enjoying keynote presentations and workshops on a wide range of topics from specific instances to the big-picture questions. On Saturday, you’ll head to Pine Lake in Wood Buffalo National Park for more activities, Indigenous learning experiences, workshops and more! There truly is something for everyone – even the kids.

If you’re a novice stargazer and wondering if this festival will be over your head, I’ll squash that fear right now. This festival is perfect whether you have multiple telescopes at home or if you’ve never looked through one before.  If you have any questions, please refer to this FAQ document where you should find everything you need!

The TAWBAS Dark Sky Festival attracts some big names including the incredible Roberta Bondar, Canada’s first female astronaut and the first neurologist to ever explore space. In 2019, I had the pleasure of listening to Bob McDonald of CBC’s Quirks and Quarks, one of our country’s best-known science journalists. He captivated the audience by connecting the dots (or well, stars) by taking us back in time to see how astronomy changed the way we see ourselves within the universe. Curious as to who will present next year? You’ll have to keep an eye on their website to see what’s being offered!

What really made me fall in love with this event though was how welcoming everyone is. Maybe it’s the northern hospitality or that everyone is connected with their passion for the sky, but it feels like one big festival family. Even if you come by yourself not knowing a single soul, I guarantee you’ll walk out with new friends for life. Plus you’ll learn so much not just about our universe but your place in it! I can’t recommend it enough and I’m already planning to attend again in the future.

Why is Wood Buffalo National Park Important?

Wood Buffalo National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it received this designation because it’s important for a number of reasons. To become a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a destination or attraction must fit one of ten criteria which outline outstanding universal values. Sites are selected based on six cultural and four natural criteria. Wood Buffalo National Park was accepted based on a number of factors.

Within the park, you’ll find the largest free-roaming herd of wood bison in the world. It’s also the only place where you’ll find the dynamic of predator and prey co-existing as bison and wolves cohabitate within the park.

It is also one of two nesting grounds for the whooping crane, the tallest bird in North America. It’s said the whooping crane was on the brink of extinction with just 20 birds left in the wild. It was by chance that a pilot on smoke patrol spotted a giant white bird who then brought a conservationist in to confirm the sighting. Thanks to this stroke of luck, the whooping crane population is now over 500. They’ll head for a remote area within Wood Buffalo National Park to nest and then migrate to Erasmus, Texas for the winter.

Wood Buffalo National Park also has a number of incredible geological formations, including the salt plains and karst topography I discussed earlier. We’re lucky to have so many incredible natural features protected within this national park.

Things to Know When Visiting

Wood Buffalo National Park is not an adventure to take lightly. As you’re in a remote location, there are a number of things to consider that you normally wouldn’t at many other national parks.

How to Get To Wood Buffalo National Park

The only way to visit Wood Buffalo National Park is by driving. It is a very remote park with little infrastructure once you enter it. Other than signage for roads and hikes, you’ll get a true taste of Canada’s northern wilderness. Chances are you’ve driven into Fort Smith so this shouldn’t be a problem! However if you’ve flown, you’ll need to rent a car in town or plan a guided tour with one of the Parks Canada guides at the visitors centre.

Be Prepared for Little to No Cell Service

You’ll find little to no cell service within the boundaries of the park. I highly recommend letting someone know exactly where you will be and an estimate of what time to expect you back. That way if you run into any trouble, you have someone who can send help. If you need cell service though, I know from experience you can find it at the top of the Salt Plains Lookout and the head of the Grosbeak trail.

It’s Best to Visit the Park in the Warmer Months

The majority of the roads in Wood Buffalo National Park are gravel or dirt, meaning they can get treacherous in the spring thaw and after heavy rain. With little cell reception, this can put you in a pickle real fast. If you don’t feel comfortable driving on the roads, don’t push it. Play it safe and stop in at the visitors centre to ask about road conditions, especially if you’re travelling alone.

Be Prepared for Muddy Trails if it’s Been Raining

Many of the trails in Wood Buffalo National Park can be muddy, especially after a few days of rain. Be careful where you step as it can mean for very slippery conditions. In Grosbeak Lake or even at the Salt Plains, you can run into spots where you’ll even sink into the muck.

Bears are Prevalent in the Park

As there is plenty of wildlife to be found within Wood Buffalo National Park, bears are not uncommon. As such, bear safety is crucial when in the park – especially if you’re camping overnight or on the trails. It’s important to make a fair amount of noise so as to alert the bear of your presence. Bears are more scared of you than you are scared of them, so making yourself known won’t attract but rather scare them away.

Yes, You’ll Still Need Bug Spray

Unfortunately for me, mosquitoes absolutely love feasting on me. Despite the north having the stereotype of it being cold all the time, it can get quite warm in the summer months… meaning yes, you will find bugs. If you’re like me, you’ll need to break out the heavy-duty spray to keep them at bay.

Pack Everything You Need For the Trip

Whether you’re going for a day of hiking or staying overnight in the park, you’ll need to bring everything you need with you. There are no stores or infrastructure if you need food, gear, etc. There is potable water available at the Pine Lake Campground but only while it’s open from the end of May until the first snowfall.

Why You Should Visit Wood Buffalo National Park

As you can see, this park is truly an incredible piece of Canada. Whether you only have a day in Fort Smith or you stay a week, plan to spend at least a little bit of time in Wood Buffalo National Park. It’s a magical place to disconnect from the world so you can reconnect with yourself and nature. I guarantee it’ll be a trip you’ll never forget!

Ready to start planning your adventure? Take a look at the map below or this Wood Buffalo National Park map to get started!

Looking for More Information on Travelling to the Northwest Territories?
What to See & Do in 24 Hours (or More!) in Fort Smith
Don’t Miss Visiting Hay River When in the Northwest Territories
Get Acquainted with Yellowknife With This Fantastic Tour of the City

Disclaimer
Thank you to Northwest Territories Tourism for hosting me during my stay. It was an absolute pleasure to be north of the 60th parallel again! While my experience was complimentary, all the opinions you read here are true and honest – as always! Read more in IBB’s disclaimer and privacy policy.

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